Underarm sleeve construction



Sept. 1, 1953 J. CLYNE UNDERARM SLEEVE CONSTRUCTION 7 4 9 1 9 2 E u A d e l 1 F l a n 1. g l r 0 FIG.I

FIG. 4

m mm, n V T ww J 1 wk Patented Sept. 1, 1953 UNDERARM SLEEVE CONSTRUCTION Joseph Clyne, Bronx, N. Y., assignor, by mesne assignments, to Flexsleev, Inc., a corporation of New York Original application August 29, 1947, Serial No.

771,342, now Patent No. 2,583,089, dated January 22, 1952. Divided and this application June 9, 1951, Serial No. 230,786

3 Claims.

My invention relates to improvements in garments and more particularly to an improved jacket or coat construction in which the elements are combined in such a manner as to provide a normal fit for the wearer and at the same time provide a construction which will permit free movement of the arms and body of the wearer.

This application is a division of my pending application Serial No. 771,342, filed August 29, 1947, now Patent No. 2,5 3,089, for Garment Construction, which in turn is a continuation-- in-part of my applications, Serial No. 595,413, filed May 23, 1945, for Garment and Serial No. 627,009, filed November 6, 1945, for Garment and Garment Construction, now Patents 2,426,818

. and 2,426,819, respectively. Claims to divisible subject matter disclosed and claimed in my application Serial No. 771,342 are presented in the present application.

When a person wearing a jacket of common construction attempts to raise his arm, it is a common experience to find that the sleeve of the jacket places a strain on the upper arm muscle so that the wearer does not have free movement of his arm. Furthermore, it is a common experience to find that the wearer of an ordinary jacket cannot raise his arms without pulling the rest of his garment out of position, to either twist it around his body, or make it ride up. This is particularly true if the wearer of the garment is in a sitting position. In some cases,

I it is very diflicult for one in a sitting position to raise his arms when wearing a jacket of ordinary construction. The strains produced on the arm muscles under such conditions necessarily make the wearer of the garment uncomfortable and gives him the feeling that his arms are held down under tension.

The primary object, therefore, of the present invention is; to provide an improved garment construction which will overcome the difiiculties and objections referred to above, and particularly to provide a jacket, coat, or other garment in which there is a minimum of restraint against free arm movement.

Another object of the invention is to provide an improved garment construction which permits raising of the wearers arms without strain on his arm muscles and without pulling the rest of the garment out of its normal position.

A further object of the invention is to provide an improved garment construction which is adapted to permit the free swinging of the arms.

According to one form of the invention, the improved garment construction comprises a garment having a body portion and sleeves therefor each sleeve comprising an under-arm portion, or under-sleeve section, and an over-arm portion, or top sleeve section, provided with end edges attached at the front of the body of the garment. In this construction the attachment end portions of the sleeve differ from a standard sleeve but include an armpit allowance which is blended into its attachment end and gradually diminishes in width from the point where the two portions of the sleeve are attached to one another at the front of the garment, the end edge of the allowance of the under-arm portion including a wave curve of relatively small amplitude with the outwardly projecting portion of the wave curve positioned at the armpit of the garment, the over-arm portion of the sleeve having an attachment edge of outwardly curved symmetrical shape, the center of which is positioned at the shoulder of the garment.

The sleeves for the garment may be two-piece or one-piece sleeves which differ from standard or conventional sleeves by having the allowances described above.

The garment of the present invention is no more diiiicult to make than a standard garment, and may be manufactured without additional cost to the wearer.

Other features, objects and advantages of the improved jacket construction of the present in-- vention will be apparent to those skilled in the art from the following more detailed description taken in connection with the accompanying drawings forming a part of this application.

In the drawings:

Fig. 1 is a broken view partly to one side, of a jacket constructed in accordance with the features of the present invention, illustrating the relationship between the sleeve structure and the body of the jacket, with the sleeve in raised position.

Fig. 2 is a pattern type view of the top and undersections of a two-piece sleeve according to the invention, as shown in Fig. 1, in which each section is provided with a compound allowance of particular configuration, the under-arm section including a substantial projection on its attachment edge.

Fig. 3 is a broken side view similar to that of .Fig. 1, showing the appearance of a jacket made with a one-piece sleeve having the pattern shown in Fig. i.

Fig. 4 is a pattern type view representing a combined under-sleeve and top sleeve including an integral allowance similar to the combined allowances of the two pieces shown in Fig. 2.

. a wave curve of relatively small, amplitude.

.. this structure the edge 36 is nearly as long as the edge 43 so that when the arm is raised there 7 material of the. sleeve.

Fig. 2. In Fig. l the jacket comprises a front section it attached to a back section [2 by means of a seam M which extends to-thearmpit-of the garment. The two back sections of the garment,

of course, are attached to eachother by.-a seam under any-sleeve strain or tension. After the at the back of the jacket.

Each of the sleeves it of the jacket shown in Fig. 1 comprises an under-arm sleeve section l8 and a top or over-arm sleeve section 20, having the respective pattern shown inFig. ZJAThese 1 ;.-:ment..edge-of-the section 29 at the shoulder of the sleeve sections are attached to each other by a front seam 22 and a back seam 24. The sleeve 53 is attached to the armhole section of the front H and back sections ofthe garment by means of a seam 26; The jacket of Fig. 1 includes a collar and other features which may be desired for a particularstyle.

The under sleeve section 18 of the jacket, as

shown in Fig. 2, differs substantially from the standard sleeve pattern at the armhole section ofthe sleeve, the shape of the standard sleeve pattern where it differs from the sleeve section 18 being indicated by a dotted line 28. There- 7 fore, according to the present invention, the uncler-sleeve section l8 includes at the-armhole additional material or a compound allowance 29 integral with, the sleeve section and of crescent shape, which is enlarged or wider toward the armpit section of the sleeve than at the back.

This allowance includes an integral tail piece or .extension 38 extending substantially along the front edge of the under-sleeve section. .The

. armhole or attachment end of the under sleeve edge 35. The curves and the projection 3! on the attachment edge of the under-arm section form In is ample material at thearmpit to give freedom of arm movement.

The topsleeve section 20 asshown in Fig. 2 also differs from the standard pattern which is indi cated by the. dotted line 32. ,This section of the sleeve therefore includes a substantial .allowa ance atthe armpit and along the lower edge 38 of the sleeve section which is integral with the .This allowance has a double wing-shaped configuration, one wing of which, 3d,.extends from the front edge 38 of the sleeve along the attachment edge while the other wing, 35, extends substantially along the front edge 38 of thesleeve from thearmpit-section. The allowances 3 5 and35 make the shoulder portionof the top sleeve 23 substantially symmetrical and the edges 33 and 42 substantially equal-the end attachment edge comprising a rather gentle convex curve, the center of which is attached at theshoulder of the garment.

Inmaking up the sleeve of the jacket shown in Fig. i from the sleeve sections l8 and 29 shown in I Fig- 2, edge 35 is attached to edge 38 by means of a seam to form the seam-22 shown in Fig. 1, while edged-0 of the under-sleeve section. i8 is attached to the/edge 42 of section 29 to .formthe seam 24;.

and 34-provide a sleeve which gives the wearer freedom to swing his arms and raise them in any positionuwithout having his arm muscles placed sleeve sections shown in Fig. 2 are assembled as L-described abovethe sleeve is sewed to the body of the garmentiwith the projection 3| at the armpit of the garment and the center of the attachgarment. The illustration in Fig. 1 shows the appearance of the sleeve in raised position when the sleeve sections include the allowances shown and described in detail in connection with- Fig. 2 of the drawings.

Fig. 3 shows a garment having a style similar to that of Fig. 1, but which is provided with a one-piece sleeve having the pattern shown in Fig. i. The garment shown in Fig 3 -comprises a front section M attached to a back section ifi by a seam 48, and a one-piece sleeve 50 attachedto the body of the garment by a seam 52. Theis1eeVB has a single lengthwise seam 54 corresponding generally tn the seam 24in Fig. 1.

The cne piece sleeve structure shown inFig. 4 comprises a combination of an under and top sleeve similar to those shown in Fig. 2- In Fig. 4 the dotted line Bfarepresentstheoutline 0f-the standard sleeve pattern whereit'difiers from that of the sleeve Ell. The sleeve 53 includes a substantially symmetrical generally crescent-shaped armpit allowance 5% having an enlarged central body section and side sections which terminate substantially at a point. This structure, including a projection 63, gives a low wave curve for the armpit attachment edge in place of the-usual deep valley, to provide a gentle slope into the large shoulder curve 82. The-use of thissleeve'results in a garment in which there is only one seam 54 in the sleeve, at the back, formed bysewing together edges E i and 66, and in which theallowance 53 gives ample freedom for lifting the-arm.

' While it will be apparent'to those'skilled in the art that various types of garments may be made in accordance with the invention, it may .be

pointed out that the forms shown in the drawings are particularly adapted for use inconnection with mens and ladies jackets. In this connection it is to beunderstoodthat the improved garment construction may be employed in various types of .apparel including .ladieswvaistspmens shirts and other apparel. The improved garment construction of the present invention results from a combination of a relatively simple structuralfeatures :Which' give the g-armentja sleeve. and armpit structure permitting free movement of, theHwearers arms withoutv distorting. the garment ,and,. without binding the-arm muscles. ,A..wear,er of, the. garment of the present invention may. raise hisv arms in any position without breakingv the sleeve or pulling the body oft-the garment out of its :normal position. Fromthe foregoingydescription, it will be apparent that certain variations-may be made in the structure of-the, garment and, still achieve the objects of the invention: Such changes are contemplated as-coming within-the spirit and scope ofthe invention.

I claim:

1. In a garment, a body portion, and a sleeve having an under-arm portion and an over-arm portion, said portions having edges attached together along the front of the sleeve, each portion of the sleeve having an attachment end attached to the body portion of the garment at the armhole, each of said portions of the sleeve including an armpit allowance which is blended into the attachment end of the sleeve and gradually diminishes in width from where the two portions are attached to one another at the front, the end edge of the allowance of the under-arm portion including a wave curve of relatively small amplitude with the outwardly projecting portion of the wave positioned at the armpit of the garment, said over-arm portion having an attachment edge of outwardly curved symmetrical shape the center of which is positioned at the shoulder of the garment.

2. A garment as defined in claim 1 in which the attached edges along the front of the sleeve each include a longitudinal allowance which extends from the allowance adjacent the attachment end of the sleeve and gradually diminishes in width toward the free end of the sleeve.

3. In a garment, a body portion, and a sleeve having an under-arm portion and an over-arm portion, said portions having edges attached together along the front of the sleeve, each of said portions having an end edge attached to the edge of the armhole of the body of the garment, the attachment end edges of said portions merging with each other by a gentle curve, each of the attachment end portions of the sleeve including an armpit allowance which is blended into the attachment end of the sleeve and gradually diminishes in width from where the two portions are attached to one another at the front, the end edge of the allowance of the under-arm portion including a wave curve of relatively small amplitude with the outwardly projecting portion of the wave positioned at the armpit of the garment, said over-arm portion having an attachment edge of outwardly curved symmetrical shape the center of which is positioned at the shoulder of the garment.

JOSEPH CLYNE.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 1,965,995 Tripp July 10, 1934 2,309,037 Berman Jan. 19, 1943 2,402,619 Freedman June 25, 1946 FOREIGN PATENTS Number Country Date 302,451 Great Britain Dec, 20, 1928 

